Boat lift repair in Bluffton, SC

Motor, cable, hydraulic and canopy repairs

A lift that will not go up leaves your boat sitting in the water growing barnacles. A lift that will not come down leaves it stuck in the air. Either way you want it fixed quickly and properly.

We come to the dock, find the fault and tell you what it will take to fix before any work starts.

• Motors that hum, trip the breaker or do not turn
• Frayed, rusted or snapped cables
• Worn pulleys, drive pipes and bearings
• Hydraulic leaks, slow cylinders and pump faults
• Switches, remotes and limit controls
• Torn canopies and bent canopy frames

Common faults and what they mean

The lift usually tells you what is wrong before it stops. These are the usual signs, and what each one points to.

• One corner drops: a cable has stretched or slipped on its winder
• Grinding or squealing: a dry bearing or a pulley that has seized
• Motor hums but nothing moves: a failed capacitor, belt or gearbox
• Breaker trips: water in the motor or a wiring fault
• Lift creeps down on its own: a worn brake or a hydraulic leak
• Broken strands or rust stains on the cable: replace it before it parts

Call (854) 877-4915 for a free estimate.

Cable lifts and hydraulic lifts

On a cable lift, the wear is in the cables, the pulleys and the winders. Cables are a service item in salt water. If one is frayed, the others are the same age and have done the same work, so we normally change the set and check the alignment while we are there.

A hydraulic lift adds cylinders, hoses, fluid and a pump. Leaks and slow travel are the usual complaints. Some hydraulic lifts use cables as well, so both sides get checked. We need the make and model to source the right parts, so have the plate details handy if you can.

Repair it or replace it

Most lifts are worth repairing. A motor, a set of cables or a hose is a small cost against a new lift, and the frame and pilings usually outlast several sets of moving parts.

Replacement makes sense when the beams or cradle are corroded through, when parts for the model can no longer be found, or when your new boat weighs more than the lift is rated for. A lift should never be run above its rating.

If it is a close call, we price both and let you decide.

Call (854) 877-4915 for a free estimate.

What drives the cost of a boat lift repair

We price a repair after the diagnosis, and you get the figure before we order parts. These are the things that set it.

• Which part has failed, and whether it is still made
• How many cables or motors need changing
• Whether the boat has to come off the lift first
• Access to the lift, from the dock or by water
• Electrical work beyond the lift itself

Electrical work and permits

Like-for-like repairs, such as new cables or a replacement motor of the same kind, are normally maintenance. Hardwired electrical work can still need a permit and an inspection from your town or county, so we check before starting.

Fitting a bigger lift, adding pilings or changing the footprint is different. That counts as a change to your dock and goes through the permit process. If a repair turns into an upgrade, we tell you where that line is.

Call (854) 877-4915 for a free estimate.

Keeping a lift out of the repair shop

Rinse the cables and beams with fresh water after use. Grease the bearings and fittings as the maker's manual says. Look along each cable once a month for rust or broken strands, and keep the boat centered and level on the bunks.

Run the lift through its full travel now and then, even when the boat is away. And have it checked over once a year, before the season, not during it.